The sound of the waves falling softly onto the sand, the breeze coming from a nearby mountains and wonderful hidden beaches just a boat stroll away. You can find it all in Corfu. Greece.
It’s no news nor secret that Greek Islands are amongst the most beautiful in the world. The clear turquoise water, multicoloured little houses piled toward a dark blue horizon and amazing Greek cuisine is just a few things that attract vacationers here. Corfu is a little bit different from it’s more popular sisters. Yes, you’ll find typical Greek beauty here, but you’ll also discover some quiet hideaways, unique views, and even a slow village life.
Once upon a time life was simple. Simple to the point where I would spend winters under palm trees and chase sunsets around the world. That was all the years before but today is different.
As you might already know from my previous post I am back home in Lithuania since March (or just before the marathons of lockdown began). First time in 12 years I would spend three seasons in a row here.
Crazy time to be alive, right?! It is unlike anything that came before, worldwide stagnation, lockdown and social distancing to curb the spread of this pandemic. Travel industry was the first to go down as people stopped moving around. Following almost six months of staying home I finally got out of my box to test the waters and write a different travel guide to those interested in what traveling looks like post Covid19.
– Your three homes are your body, earth and mind – take proper care of them. –
Have you ever dreamed about a little cabin by the river, surrounded by woods and chirping of birds? I have this picture in my head quite regularly. That’s exactly how I imagine serenity and connection with nature. So when someone told me about such place existing 30km from where I am based now my instant reaction was “It’s not a good time to drop jokes like this, you know how serious I am about ME time…”
As far as cities go, Lisbon has quickly shot to the list of top cities to visit since my first trip this January. If you’ve been to this Portuguese destination already, then you’ll understand my judgement- it’s charming streets, authentic trams, timeless architecture and delicious food gives all the reasons to love Lisbon. If you are planning on visiting Lisbon for the first time, you’ve come to the right place. This guide will hopefully give you tips not only what to explore during your first journey to the city but also why you should add it to your upcoming list of travels.
TOP THINGS TO SEE IN LISBON
DAY 1// EXPLORE LISBONS NEIGHBOURHOODS
Rise and shine early. Even in low season, tourism still exists, plus days are shorter; sleeping in isn’t an option if you want to explore most of attractions in few days.
SANTA JUSTA LIFT
The design of this 45-meter lift was inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It was built in 1902 to connect two neighbourhoods and save a steep climb to its residents. There is a viewing platform at the top, which can also be accessed on foot, saving you money and time queuing.
Directions: the top deck of the Santa Justa elevator can be accessed by walking on the Largo do Carmo, walking to the right of the Carmo ruins and then going past the Bellalisa Elevador restaurant.
I’ve learned this ‘visit for free’ trick from Christina (@happytowander)
VISIT LISBONS MAIN SQUARE
Praca do Comercio is Lisbon’s main square. Opposite is the Arco da Rua Augusta leading to the shopping boulevard and center of Lisbon. It is around 5 min walk from the Santa Justa elevator.
Lisbon main square
PINK STREET
Lisbon’s Pink Street is exactly what it spells like- a street painted bright pink!
Former Lisbon’s red light district is now more about nightlife and photos. It has become one of the more popular things to do in Lisbon so I advise you to pay an early visit to get an empty pink street.
TAKE PICTURES OF LISBONS CUTE TRAMS
Trams in Lisbon are one of the best ways to explore the Lisbon’s old city, its historic heritage and hilly neighbourhoods.
As well as helping visitors avoid walking up and down the hills they’re also great for pictures! My phone space was filled with photos of cute trams.
Tram 28 to Alfama is the most popular route to take. I personally found it too cramped (ever arriving early) and opted for other less popular options. But Tram ride is a must do while in town.
A single ticket to the tram costs 3 EUR
TESOURO DA SE PATRIARCAL
The Lisbon Cathedral is often called simply the Sé. It’s the oldest church in the city, built in 1147, the cathedral has survived many earthquakes and has been modified, renovated and restored several times. It is nowadays a mix of different architectural styles.
You can also visit a next door Museum of Lisbon – Santo António. Take the chance as you climb up to the castle to discover a church devoted to the most popular saint in Lisbon. It was built on the site of his place of birth.
ALMFAMA- CUTEST LISBON NEIGHBOURHOOD
Alfama is one of the oldest districts of Lisbon. Its streets are a delightful maze of narrow cobbled paths and ancient houses. It is the best place in Lisbon to wander without agenda and find some beautiful historic buildings while doing so.
I have to give it away that my favourite pastels de nata (custard tarts) were sampled in this region, at Pastry Santo António. I found them much lighter and creamier here than anywhere else in Lisbon, plus its duster with powdered sugar and cinnamon, my favourite combination. YUM.
To finish up this busy day, head to less known Bar Terraco De Santa Luzia for sunset filled with some amazing town views (called mirrador). Service wasn’t 10/10 but prices are very reasonable and views are to die for.
One of many Mirradors
DAY 2// BELEM
Belem is quite a busy tourist area, and the monastery and tower attract quite a line of visitors. It is advised to visit them first and early in the morning (30 min to an hour before opening time) otherwise you could be waiting in line for hours.
Tip: The Belem tower is closed every Monday.
Reward yourself with pastel de nata at the world-famous Pasteis de Belem shopafter.
If you have an extra day in Lisbon I would highly advice making out of the city to visit Sintra.
BONUS DAY//
DAY 3// DAYTRIP TO SINTRA
Driving from Lisbon to Sintra takes less than an hour, making it a perfect day trip. Spend a day exploring the the UNESCO Cultural Landscape of Portugal filled with fairy tale castles before heading back to Lisbon.Discover Pena Palace, Moorish Castle and much more inside the huge natural park.
Take a train to Sintra early in the morning (ideally 7:40am) from central Rossio Station. Journey takes approximately 40min.
I managed to visit all the sites I wanted but had to plan day in advance to stay on a schedule.
Here are my visited places opening times and ticket prices:
Pena Palace: The most instagrammable place: 14EUR/ 9:30am-7pm
Moorish Castle: 7EU/ 9:30am-8pm
Quinta da Regaleira & the famous well: 8EU/ 10am-5:30pm
WHEN TO GO
I went to Lisbon off season, in January 2020, quite spontaneously to be honest. It’s winter time and we all know those cheeky budget airline sales. Got myself a bargain ticket from London and went solo explore this beautiful destination. This proved to be a great decision, as my hate exploring cities when scorching hot and full of tourists is increasingly growing.
I was told shoulder seasons (March-April) are good too but tickets might be slightly higher priced.
GETTING AROUND
Yes, Uber does exist in Lisbon and is fairly cheap to get around. If you’d rather take public transport, buy a reusable VivaViagem card which gives discounted fares. You can use it for trains, buses, trams and metro.
Lisbon is in a way a cobblestoned labyrinth, which makes it sometimes hard to walk uphill but if you’re like me prefer exploring cities by foot- pack comfy shoes and you won’t be left disappointed by finding most charming streets. Take public transport uphill and walk downhill.
Tip: cheapest way to travel to/from airport is by Aerobus. Return fare is 5 EUR.
Trams galore
WHERE TO STAY
Lisbon’s most famous neighborhoods are downtown Baixa and shopping district Chiado. There are also older parts of town- Barrio Alto and Alfama, both beautiful, busy and has great nightlife.
I decided to stay as central as possible, so I can walk everywhere (also avoid shopping on this trip).
Brown’s Central Hotel– a straightforward choice with an easy access to the city’s main sights; steps away from Rossio and Santa Justa Elevator makes it ideal to enjoy the bustle of Lisbon.
Dark and moody corridors lead to my bright and welcoming room. Stepping in through big wooden doors revealed a stylish bedroom behind: individually designed chick boutique interior, Roberts radio, Marshall amp and Nespresso coffee machine- you got my sympathy there! Not to mention you’re provided with Pillow Menu. YES you heard me right- Brown’s care about your sleepy time zzzz.
Staff was extremely friendly and knowledgable. I was welcomed with an extra love that day- a bottle of red and a freshly baked pastel de nata at the bedside table. It really made me feel special and welcomed.
My love for hotels is heavily based on the food they make. Breakfast was served buffet style in the downstairs brasserie. I enjoyed the selection of juices, hot foods and the option to feast on custard tarts in the morning (oh hello, holiday!). I did not leave disappointed and was full for rest half of the day. They also serve lunch and have a cosy Art Deco-inspired bar serving my favorite Pisco Sour.
In my opinion, Brown’s Central Hotel was a great choice. It’s a sure crowd-pleaser: a brilliant base for an easy and affordable city break.
Are You Visiting Lisbon For The First Time? Let Me Know In The Comments What You’re Most Excited To Do During Your Stay!
So I’ve been to South America about four years ago and spent nearly six months exploring Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. That’s where my trip ended. I’ve always had the need to come back and see the rest of the continent. The day has finally come. I’m on a mission to explore Chile, Argentina and Brazil this time, starting at the close point to where I finished some years ago, northern part of Chile- San Pedro de Atacama.
I’ll be honest – I had a lot of questions before my trip to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. Questions like, what’s the weather going to be like? How do I even get there? What are the best things to see and do? Most important question in any planning stages is how many days to spend in San Pedro so that I could get my flights booked and start this ball rolling.
Of course it really depends on what kind of traveller you really are. If you like to travel slow and spend longer time in each place, you can easily do so in San Pedro. However, this post is more geared towards people with limited time to travel but who still want to make the most of their time in this stunning part of Chile.
I’ve spent a total of 3 days self driving in San Pedro de Atacama, traveling in all directions to see as much as possible. Days started early and finished with stargazing outside town. If this sounds like you, then read on, because this 3 day self- drive itinerary around Atacama desert will help you figure out exactly what to do with your limited time and most importantly- what order to do it in.
In this self-drive guide I will share my 3 day itinerary and must-see spots around Atacama desert.
Things to know before visiting Atacama Desert
Whether it is summer or winter you’re visiting, pack warm clothes; nights, mornings and higher elevation sitesget really cold even in high season
Most parks charge for entrance but most lagoons are free
Eating out in restaurants are expensive, for more budget options look for places serving ‘Menu del Dia’
There’s only one petrol station around 100km radius, fill up your tank before leaving for a day
Read about altitude sickness, it is very common around Atacama as some view points reach nearly 5000m above sea level
Atacama Desert is the driest place on Earth, so make sure to pack your lotion, lip balm and most importantly your sunscreen!
Driving in Atacama Desert
Before the trip to Atacama Desert, I’ve research tour options vs independent travel and decided to go for self drive experience because:
It was me and my sister, so financially it made more sense hiring a car. I’m not the biggest fan of tours and only go for them when I have no choice for doing it independently or when I have no knowledge.
I also came to conclusion that hiring a car in Calama and staying in San Pedro was the best option exploring the area. We rented 2×4 in Calama Airport (booked in advance) which was the cheapest option plus most convenient, since we flew in and out from Calama.
Hearing ‘Desert’ can be slightly misleading. Chileans maintain their highways to the highest standard and most of the routes are built through amazing landscapes. Driving around Atacama is pure joy most of the time. Even tho, most places are easily accessible with 2×4, there are few famous sights that can only be accessed with a tour or 4×4 car. Do your research beforehand.
OK, ready to dive into self-drive itinerary? Let’s get to it.
Day 1: EXPLORE NORTH | Termas de Puritama and around San Pedr
Hot Springs in Northern Atacama
This itinerary starting and ending point is San Pedro de Atacama.
Start your exploring slowly, keep in mind you need to adapt high altitude.
Get to know city of San Pedro, main central part is pedestrian zone only. Exchange or withdraw some money (only cash accepted at parks), get some food for other day lunches too.
After lunch, drive up towards north to Termas de Puritama. Most tourists visit hot springs early in the morning hence lunchtime is perfect to avoid the crowds plus save some money. Win Win.
Tips + Things to Know
–Entrance fee to Termas de Puritama:
Morning CLP$ 19.500 (£20/€23)
Afternoon (2pm-5pm) CLP$ 11.700 (£12/€14)
Day 2: EXPLORE SOUTH | Lagunas Chaxa, Miscanti/Miniques, Tuyajto and Salar de Talar
Laguna Chaxa and residents flamingoes
Today is by far the most intense but alsoone of our favourite full-day drives. We aimed to visit all chosen sites along the Ruta 23 leading south. We made five stops and decided to skip Laguna Cejar, as it seemed overpriced and as we later found out it was less impressive then other lagoons we’ve visited that day.
First stop was Laguna Chaxa, with hundreds of flamingos and was excellent spot for pictures. I encourage you to download an offline map (I use maps.me) and drop all pins you want to visit, as most places aren’t sign marked after turning off the main road. Then we stopped at Laguna Miscanti and Miniques, which was the highest altitude point (about 4200 metres above sea level) but so incredibly beautiful! Then followed Laguna Tuyajto and last but not least Salar de Talar.
Main road is well maintained, but when you turned off to lagoons it’s gravel or even sand. Don’t let that put you off renting a car or self driving, it’s easily done by 2×4 without any tour.
That said, this was a day our can experienced altitude sickness we didn’t tho!). Such thing actually exists, as we were told by local guides. Car wasn’t able to go all the way up to Laguna Miscanti because of lack of oxygen in the engine. Don’t ask…
Tips + Things to Know
–Entrance fees in this day trip:
-Laguna Chaxa CLP$ 3000 (£3/€3.5)
-Laguna Miscanti/Miniques CLP$ 2500(£2.5/€3)
-Laguna Tuyajto FREE
-Salar de Talar FREE
-Start early if you want to avoid crowds & make it home by sunset
-Pack lunch to take with you, as food options along the way are very limited
– Don’t miss the Tropic of Capricorn sign mid way to Salar de Talar.
-Most spots on this drive are going to be in high altitude, meaning it will be hander to breathe and much colder. Pack long trousers and coat! We went in summer (November) and high peaks were extremely windy.
-Fill up your tank, no petrol stations along the way
Views of Laguna Tuyaito
Viewpoint of Salar de Talar
Picture perfect drive views
Day 3: EXPLORE WEST | Lagunas de Baltinache & Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)
Lagunas Baltinache
On our last day we decided to head out West and see a less-known site – Lagunas de Baltinache. Since this isn’t a popular attraction amongst tourists we had the whole place to ourselves. At the lagoons, you’ll find 7 dazzling blue lakes surrounded by shimmering crystals of salt. You can swim in first and last lagoon, but the rest are off-limits for research and conservation purposes.
Weightless salt baths in Baltinache
After Baltinache Lagoons, we went back to town to have some food and change into warmer clother before heading out to second place today-Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). It is by far the most visited place around San Pedro de Atacama and is best for watching sunsets.
Tips + Things to Know
-Entrance Fee to Lagunas de Baltinache: CLP$ 5000 (£5/€6)
-Lagunas de Baltinacheare a relatively unknown spot near San Pedro. Reaching them requires driving 40km (around 1h) on curvy, unpaved road, which seems to be never ending. You have to watch your speed though or else risk losing a tire.
-Don’t be fooled by high outside temperatures, the water is relatively cold, yet refreshing
-Sunscreen isn’t allowed if you intend to go swimming, so if you do, cover up after getting out, sun is extremely powerful in a desert.
-You have to enter Valle de la Luna before 5PM, as it takes an hour to drive to Great Dune for an epic sunset views.
-Entrance Fee to Valle de la Luna: CLP$ 3000 (£3/€3.5)
Where to stay in San Pedro de Atacama
There are hundreds of options to choose from in San Pedro de Atacama. From low to mid and high budget travellers. Because we had a car it made more sense parking and budget wise staying outside of a city centre. Airbnbs are also a great option if you aren’t traveling solo.
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