In the eyes of the world, the most common characteristics associated with Mexico relate to the resorts of Cancun, drug violence, tacos and tequila. 29^th of January marks the beginning of a new adventure around Central and South America, landing in controversial spring breakers paradise Cancun. We had our expectations set to a modest level.

Main plan was to stroll around Yucatan and cross into Belize and so on. But knowing previous experiences as a backpacker- plans can change faster then direction of a wind.

Pardon if this post will be more informative then ‘here are my emotions’. When I was doing my research on Mexico, people chose different itineraries from what I’ve done, so I thought some might be interested to follow my one.

Here I also include transportation costs, to give you an idea when you’re being ripped off:)

First glimpse of Mexican sun would be in Cancun, where flights are cheap and tourists abundant. Very first impression of Cancun was not particularly positive, even tho I’ve arranged couchsurfing and ended up in great company at the downtown of Cancun. Still, it’s too commercial, too big and way too expensive. Two days down into fighting jetlag and adapting to long waited sun, we head down to Isla Mujeres.

The only way to get there is by speed ferry, which runs every 30min from main port and takes aprox 15min. Be aware, agents will try to sell return tickets for $19.99 but if you go directly to port, it will cost you 146pesos, which is $10.

Isla Mujeres. Look at those beaches!

We’ve stayed in best rated Pocna hostel, where dorm rooms cost around $11/night. Tip: if you’re booking via hostelworld, use TopCashback to get some pounds back. They have lockers in each room, clean bathrooms and breakfast included. Even tho breakfast was very basic, and by that I mean one boiled egg and a slice of toast plus coffee. Don’t even try to take more then one egg, you’ll be told off, for real:) Also be aware of your belongings! We’ve got our bag stolen at hostel bar, straight in front of our eyes, with credit cards and an iphone in it. Sad story bro…

For food, head to the square, at night it has 15peso chicken and fish tacos. Also try Pita Amore place, delicious food for affordable price. Unfortunately, I can’t advise on any touristy restaurants, as I tend to skip them anywhere I go. Get lost in streets and you’ll definitely find something worth tasting.

For entertainment, rent a golf buggy, you’ll get the dose of childhood excitement back. Worth investing 150pesos! If you’re on a budget like me, an hour will be enough to drive to the other side of the island to see the ruins, or better description for it ten remaining bricks on the cliff. At least driving golf cart was fun!

North beach is stunning and is short 5min walk away. Caribbean sea won’t disappoint you.

Three days on the island is enough, as not much to do here. Even having plenty of time in our hands, we decided to move further as there is so much to see going further into Mexico.

Playa del Carmen. Day trip to Akumal.

Cancun- Playa del Carmen colectivo bus cost 35pesos ($2.3), you can find it just outside ADO bus station. Get a taxi outside port terminal and negotiate to 35pesos as that’s the real price for 5km journey to colectivo terminal. If you’re 0% fluent in Spanish just drop one sentence, which will save your day sorting the ride to shuttle bus: ‘colectivo para Playa del Carmen por favor’. Works the magic.

Once in Playa d Carmen, walk around 5^th and 10^th ave, quite amusing. Place is very touristy but has nice beaches and wide selection of food. As always, my recommendation and answer to cheapest and best food would be street wagons. You can get tacos as cheap as 10pesos or burritos for 35. Town on its own doesn’t have much to offer apart from nightlife and shopping, so we made a day trip to Akumal, to see some turtles.

Straight forward info on that:

Take colectivo bus to Tulum from 10^th/2^nd Get off at Akumal, ticket costs 35pesos. Have your own snorkel gear as at the beach it will cost you 10 times more to rent it. We got ours from walmart for like $5. At the beach people make you rent life vests for $7 or you won’t be allowed to swim, it’s for turtles security blah blah, whatever, as everywhere else they’re just trying to make business. To go around this, come a bit later then main tourist groups, after 3pm, then no one cares, as all security is on siesta time:) I’ve seen a few massive turtles munching on seaweed, simply amazing! One even smacked me on the shoulder while trying to swim pass. I probably deserve it, as pushing my gopro to turtles face while he is eating is a bit rude.

Tulum for beach ruins.

Playa del Carmen- Tulum. Magic colectivo from same place as going to Akumal for 40pesos this time, as it’s twice further then Akumal. Stayed overnight at hostel Del Sol for $11/night. Reading hostel info online made me well excited for so promised Jacuzzi, but oh well, disappointment is not a news anymore. Good for a night as a stopover, but not longer then that. Again, Tulum is known just for it’s beach ruins, so you can even do day trip from Playa Carmen without staying overnight. Historical site is about 5km from the hostel, which is a nice walk or bike ride if you have time. Entrance fee is 64pesos ($4.5). Interesting if you’re not planning on seeing chitchen itza or other bigger ones but I wouldn’t include it in my must see list. Especially for that price, feels like a bit of a rip off.

Oh holly Chitchen Itza!

From Tulum take ADO bus to Valladolid for 108 pesos. When you arrive you can find colectivo just outside bus terminal, which will take you to Chitchen Itza for 30 pesos. Entrance fee is 216pesos ($20 with their poor exchange rate). Temple itself is magical and full of history. If you want nice pictures and less crowded browsing around, visit site in the afternoon but bare in mind that last admission will be 4PM.

It took me around an hour to walk around and read history boards as it’s not as big as I expected. But other travellers like spending all day there, unfortunately to me it’s too touristy as a picnic location.

Many market stalls selling $1 souvenirs and shouting ‘almost for free’:) And some weird whistles making noise of an uprising demon. Extremely inappropriate and weird I must say.

Merida. Where colours have more then 50 shades.

Chitchen Itza- Merida Ado bus runs frequently and cost 148pesos, cheaper alternative would be 2^nd class bus for 80 pesos, takes a bit longer, hence almost twice cheaper. NOTE that last bus leaves 4:30PM.

Merida is much bigger then expected! Big surprise, as in my head I had a picture of cute little town surrounded by mountain and everything reachable by foot. I would say it’s bigger then Cancun. Best way getting around would be local buses, 7pesos per ride.

If you happen to visit Merida on Sunday, don’t miss the market, selling cheap fruits and visit main square for live entertainment and 5peso tacos.

Town is full of culture and history. If time permits, just get lost in colourful streets which will lead you to another taco/burrito van.

Lots of cenotes around Merida, most popular would be next to Chitchen Itza, also most crowded and most expensive.

We’ve couchsurfed in Merida and had a lovely host who advised to skip touristy ones and instead go to unpopular cenote near San Antonio Munix, more known around locals. Monday is a new mad day, so why not to spice it up with some adventure. If you decide to do the same here are the drections:

Take colectivo from San Juan square towards Muna (28pesos) and ask driver to let you off at junction to San Antonio Munix. Then it’s about 9km walk to little village and another 2km from there to two beautiful cenotes. You’ll definitely get the feeling like you just discovered them; empty, no tourists, mirror clear waters. Entry cost 50pesos tho, which is still 5 times cheaper the Quintana Roo cenotes. All in all it’s a very long walk in the heat but if you’re brave, stop passing by cars to get a lift. We stopped a police truck and they were more then happy to help. Took to cenotes and not jail. Lucky. Skipped leg day and 9km walk in +32C

On the way back met lovely mexican couples who offered a lift to the main road to catch a colectivo back.

We had to wait like an our for bus to stop, as most of them were full, BUT cost just 20pesos to get back. Total spending comes to 96pesos (plus a sandwich and a bottle of water in a supermarket).

Pictures will do the justice.

Palenque and fulfilled expectations.

Trip from Merida to Palenque is long. My advice take a night bus from Ado station, which leaves at 10Pm and cost 568pesos. 9 hour drive is a bit of a torture, considering it’s freezing cold in the bus plus it has regular seats, miss you asia for sleeping buses, winner! We’ve stayed at Jungle Palace right next to the entrance to the national park. 100pesos per night in a jungle cabana, with hot shower and clean towels. And one night is more then enough, as ruins will take no more then 2hours to walk around. With entry fee of 94.50pesos, it’s a big winner against Chitchen Itza. First of all it’s more impressive then Chitchen Itza, but that’s exactly what I was told; the further you go, the better ruins you’d see. I’ve walked to and from the ruins, which is like 3km one way, or if you feeling lazy you can catch a colectivo on the way there, for 20pesos. If you fancy a swim in the waterfall, you’ll see a little path on your right midway back. Secret but awesome!

San Cristobal de las Casas

Heard numerous of stories about high jacked tourist buses. Actually, the most recent one was a week ago. Being a bit terrified by that, decided not to risk traveling by tourist buses and rather suffer in small stuffed colectivos. Not that bad to be fair, apart from tiny wiggly roads that can turn upside down even the strongest stomach.

Palenque- Ocosingo (60pesos)- San Cristobal (65pesos)= 125pesos for 5 hour journey. San Cristobal is by far my favourite of all visited places in Mexico. Very remote and full of Mexican spirit. Local markets are loud and sunsets are immaculate. We’ve stayed in Akumal hostel, which is very central (even tho town is not big), night costing 120pesos, including full breakfast, made by the owner.

Long journey tomorrow to Guatemalas lake Atitlan as a next destination. You can get bus tickets in any travel shop, as prices are similar, around 300pesos.

To sum up just over two weeks experience in Mexico.

Most of expenses went for transport. It is indeed expensive to travel around Mexico.

Second place goes to entrance fees. Unfortunately, can’t be skipped.

Quintana Roo is VERY touristy, so don’t expect authentic Mexico. And this applies to food, culture, sightseeing. Remember the rule, the further from Cancun you go, the cheaper it gets. Plus less tourists and less people speak English.