‘Traveling  is never about money it’s about courage’.

I’ve been very far away for a few days but glad to be back into virtual world. And the news are that where we’ve been would shock even those who travelled and experienced effect of poverty before. Worth mentioning

After long considerations we’ve decided to visit the touristic ‘golden triangle’ before going beyond the tourist path. Even tho, from the beginning we knew that the last thing we want to do on this big adventure is to be tourists so in and out we tried to blend into locals life. Stayed at local families houses via coutchsurfing (2 days in each city), were using public transport instead of tuk tuks or taxis, collected information and advice from locals and organised our own tours around most seen monuments. Even monitored locals shopping in markets to find out the real prices 🙂

Delhi

Delhi was the first stop in India, which seemed considerably dirty and poor. Later discovered it has a tube running across the city which makes access much easier knowing the size of it. What really surprised us was ‘women only ‘ carriage, which always had space without feeling like you’re in a tuna tin and men strictly complied with this rule.

We went for couch surfing here and other cities as it’s the best way to save money and get the real taste of culture while living with locals. Dhavans, our Delhi family was more than we could ask for a first time surfing! Absolutely lovely people who took care of us in every aspect of the day, introducing to their culture and food, and even inviting to take part in friends birthday party, which was an incredible experience. We feel blessed that our paths crossed with these amazing people. Worth mentioning that from day one in India, before going to sleep we spared an hour or so to chat about todays impressions and tomorrows plans. We also thanked God for keeping us safe and healthy and asked to stay with us no matter which part of the world we are.

Visited most beautiful monuments including India gate, Lotus Temple, Red fort, Akshardham (unfortunately haven’t seen it from the inside) and famous spices market.

More about first impression of India can be found in my previous post here.

Jaipur

Next stop was Jaipur. Got the bus from Delhi early in the morning without booking ticket in advance as found out from locals that you can bargain with the driver if there are spare seats left. Been there, done that and ended up getting the ticket for 500 rupee (RP) instead of 800. Journey took 5hours but bus was very comfy and time went quickly. Reference for future readings $1= 60 indian rupee (RP)

Couchsurfed next door to Amber Palace (full of elephants around), in a small Amer village just 10min outside Jaipur, which gave us hundred times better taste of Indians everyday life and culture. Couchsurfers were a bit disappointing comparing what an amazing family we had in Delhi. We haven’t been offered water after the long journey as by the previous couchsurfers but again you can’t be treated the same by everyone. It might just be the variation of cultural differences which we are just starting to get to know.

Jaipur looked and felt very different from Delhi, which in my point of view was much more civilised. Maybe because it’s a capital. Here you can see pigs, goats, hogs, cows, monkeys, camels and even elephants walking freely on the road. And here it seems as normal as seeing a cat in streets in Lithuania. And in London you can’t event see that.

Also had an opportunity to touch an elephant. The skin is so hard and thick! Bumped into one by surprise when trying to get out of a local shop. He was just standing there blocking the exit. So I stroked his trunk (as previously read that it’s the best way for personal communication) and he touched my head in return. It’s such a surreal feeling, impossible to express by words! It really brakes my heart seeing them here, being owed by someone and not in the wild where they belong…

Everywhere and I mean everywhere locals try to rip you off. Even for a banana they’re asking 10RP when locals buy 1kg for 20RP. But as said above we took some time to observe their tricks and to learn the art of bargaining. It took some time experimenting, tried sending decent looking local to buy some bananas for us with 10RP, unfortunately he came back with 3 bananas and no change. Giedre even started believing that maybe it’s a real price, however, I didn’t give in and gave it a last shot and went to kids selling in the street thinking they might have more conscience. And I was right. First they asked 100RP for a kilo but after criticizing how dare he lying to an adult he gave in and sold them for 20RP. Point made- bananas are not expensive here!

After buying bananas tried to eat them in peace away from the beeping noise but were attacked by monkeys who stole our well bargained snacks. Not just locals trying to live from tourists but animals too finding ways to survive.

Amber Palace looked incredible from outside. Whole village surrounded by mountains and old walls with small steps going up. We took the challenge and went all the way up and I must agree, gym membership is on my to do list someday 🙂 on the way came across a dead person who was laid down on the ground and covered with a blanket. No flowers, no people gathering around which is exactly why it took us some time to realise what’s in front. And people who know me well would gasp hearing this, as the fact is, I’m petrified of funerals and dead people which almost made me go into a psychogenic shock. That’s what I call an experience and easily drop this quote: “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone”. But what a view opened up in front of us once we reached the top!

As mentioned before, Amber Palace is known by the elephant rides so many owners offering this attraction. As later found out price for this joy is 3500RP ($58) so we decided to skip it and do it on the later travels, maybe in Thailand. Instead spending a fortune, took a local bus and went to explore Jaipur. Bus ticket cost 20RP for tourists but if you argue with a ticket inspector they will sell it for a standard fare- half price. Even tho, seen a few times women giving 10RP and getting a return ticket but anyway, their English vocabulary are not developed to the level to argue about the later. Buses are same as you see in movies, people hanging out of the windows and the brave ones even sitting on a roof. They never stop properly, so if you’re quick enough to jump in and out- good for you! Haven’t seen any tourists riding public transport but always pleasure to be the first ones to do it 🙂 went to the centre, saw more poverty, came back. Nothing special, no wow factors discovered. The only new discovery was local sweet made from peanuts and what we’re guessing was melted sugar or caramel. Wanted to get some apples as well but had an impression they were made from gold as cost 70RP each. Decided to press skip button again.

Big impression was left by Hawa Mahal ‘Palace of the winds’ history. The main highlight of this impressive building is its pyramid shape and its 953 windows or ‘Jharokhas’ which are decorated with intricate designs. The main intention behind the construction of the Mahal was to facilitate the royal women and provide them a view of everyday life through the windows, as they never appeared in public.

Internet in Jaipur doesn’t exist as well as  sim cards, even tho everyone in a street looks like a businessperson- no shoes or clothes but mobile phone in hand 🙂 Every second “shop” is named ‘Vodafone”, however no sim cards or any mobile devices can be found here, just locally produced snacks or overpriced water.

Interesting bits visited in Jaipur area: Amber Palace, Hawa Mahal and Jal Mahal (Water Palace).

So far, manners here doesn’t seem to exist: kids pooing in a street without hiding and men urinating in public in the centre of Jaipur. Head hurting from beeping, shouting and annoying chatups. Poverty level is below zero. Can’t imagine living worse but was warned that later in Varanasi living standards will get downhill. Wake up call for myself- my life is so well balanced, whoever disagrees should make a trip to north India and then we can talk.

Agra

Next stop- Agra. Journey by bus from Jaipur took around 5hours and cost 345RP each. On the way driver stopped once for a toilet and snacks. In ladies toilet we met a girl called Perya who was hardly 10 years old and was working there. Gave her a lollipop and she ran away locking herself in one of the loos to secretly eat it.

My eye got caught on a road sign which said that all vehicles are subject to ‘road fares’ except: president and everyone working in higher governmental institutions. Mine owners and factory executives are also excluded. In short, rich and loaded personas don’t have to spend their cash on road taxes. Direct discrimination is very obvious even to my contacts-free eye.

People in Agra are twice as annoying and even more aware of the outsiders comparing with the above mentioned places. Our blond hair makes it even worse. Feeling like celebrity, who can’t make a move without attracting crowds of locals. Ignoring this, our mission here was to complete the Golden Triangle by seeing Taj Mahal. It was accomplished at 7am on the 26^th of November 2013. Also we’re celebrating a week of traveling in India. So far, loving every bit of it!

So far the budget for a day comes to $3 for both of us (excluding long travels between cities and entry to Taj Mahal), that’s what I call budget travelling!

Lesson of the week: book your train ticket well in advance as they get sold out weeks before your planned departure, no matter which class you’re choosing!

Last but not least, recent experiences made me realise how much we rely on internet and phones. Sometimes it’s a good thing, however, at the moment can’t afford even thinking this way.

Next stop- Varanasi