Salento is a charming little city of about 7000 inhabitants set in the heart of Colombia’s Zona Cafetera, where over 50% of the country’s coffee is produced. It’s a town of colorful buildings that line imperfectly charming little streets, that lead to the main square, or if you go the opposite direction, you’ll end up in the mountains. Other than sipping on a warm cup of Colombian coffee while taking in the picture perfect landscapes, there are other great outdoor activities, like horseback riding, hiking or visiting the coffee farms. It’s a land where the clouds never let go of mountain tops and rain is always moments away.
We arrived to Salento at 6am in the morning, when hostels were still closed and streets completely empty. Probably the best time to stroll around the town and take pictures that doesn’t contain people scratching their nose. After a few knocks on hostel doors, we found a charming little place called Estrella Sin Fronteras, next street from the yellow bridge. Dorms and privates cost C$18,000/night and you get free homemade pie with a locally produced cup of coffee for breakfast. We ended up staying here for three nights.
Day one was dedicated for long nap to make it up for last night in the bus and wondering around the town. Many little souvenir shops and a hike to see the town from the birds view.
Second day we made it to the coffee farm on foot. It’s about 5km outside Salento and most of the road goes downhill, so the walk is easy and the scenery is breathtaking. Start the walk by crossing yellow bridge and walk following yellow coffee farm signs. Tour costs C$8,000 ($3), which is worth every penny! Very informative and interesting; you get the chance to pick coffee beans, grind them and at the end make your own cup of coffee. Even tho, I’ve been on a coffee tour in Bali a few years ago, this one was very different and I truly enjoyed it. What I didn’t enjoy was a walk back. I was aware, we can get a jeep ride back for like a dollar but I thought to myself, I’ll have a walk and pick one on the way. However, every jeep that passed was completely full. I ended up walking all 5km uphill. Not sure how my legs will respond to the attempt on trekking the Valle de Cocora.
Coffee at drying stage
Making coffee
Coffee at it’s first stage (being held by Dom:)
Valle de Cocora
Day three. It’s 7am when I go to Salento’s main square to catch a jeep to the Valle de Cocora. I’m surprised to see that they’re already full… or I just thought so. Once all the seats inside the jeeps are taken, there is still space to stand on the back ledge and hang on. Ride is about 30min long as costs £3,400 one way. Jeep leaves you next to a small shop that rents wellies and horses, and that’s where the road splits. If you have time and enjoy trekking, turn right. So called ‘full loop’ trek over the mountains took us four hours, but if you’re short on time, or just want to see wax palm trees, go straight. Path will lead you to the top of the valley in one hour and costs you C$3,000. Without knowing those two options beforehand, as everyone else, we went right. Through the jungle and the mud puddles, through little bridges and steep climbs, we reached the top-montana. Road splits once, take right to hummingbird farm, or left to continue to your destination.
Full trek is about 5km up and then 5.5km downhill. At the last 3km you see the valley from the top. I guess roughing it for a few hours probably makes those final epic views a little sweeter. The green colour and the fresh air of the valley made me feel alive! My eyes were dotting like ping pong balls from one palm tree to another, trying to find which one is the highest. I was putting my hands up against the wind and running in the fields like a little child. Sun kissing my hair, palms looking down on me. The feeling rushing through my body was freedom. There’s hardly anyone around, which makes you think, if this place is real?
Getting to Salento from Medellin
The buses to Armenia and the rest of Colombia’s coffee region leave from the Terminal del Sur near the Poblado metro station in Medellin. By near I mean you’ll have to walk another kilometre once you get to Pablado, turn right when you exit the station. Two major bus lines operate between Medellin and Armenia – Flota Occidental and Flota Arauca. We chose Flota Occidental since they appeared to have nicer buses and more frequent departures than Flota Arauca. Buses leave every hour between 4:30am and 11:30pm and cost C$43,000. We got to the station around 10pm and travelled with the last bus (11:30pm), with a plan to spend a night on the road and save accommodation cost. Bus was really comfy but cold, ask for a blanket. It took almost 6hours to reach Armenia. Upon arrival we had a cup of coffee in the station and got on the first 5:30am bus to Salento. Journey takes just over an hour and cost C$4,000 ($1.5). And here we are, in the main square, breathing in fresh mountain air and the aroma of the best coffee in the world.
P.S. many travellers choose to take day buses to Armenia and then arrive late at night. Bare in mind, that during the day bus journey will take way longer then 6hours and I heard stories of people arriving too late to get the last bus to Salento, which means you either have to spend a night in a hostel or take a taxi. We chose a night route which worked out perfectly.
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