The many sides of Varanasi

“Varanasi is nothing but river Ganges and Ghats.”- opinions of most visitors.

Night of 26th of November we left Agra- the last stop of golden triangle. Went on a 10 hour train journey from Tundla to Varanasi. It was first time using Indian Railways and this experience blew us away. After traveling a week in outskirts of India I thought nothing would surprise me anymore, however, once again I had ‘to eat my words’. First of all it was almost impossible to get direct train tickets, as India has the biggest railway network in the world but with friends who lives in Mumbai help we got sorted out very quickly. As soon as we arrived to Tundla train station, worth mentioning we reached it by government bus which was full of men carrying massive bags of flour and grains home, we were shocked by station conditions: people sleeping on the ground, rails are ”moving” from quantity of rats! We had hour and a half before the departure, which passed unnoticed thanks to group of lithuanians that we accidentally met on the platform. And they were first lithuanians we met in India so far.

By the time our train arrived I was quite nervous. And the reason behind it was seeing other trains passing by, as they didn’t even looked like trains carrying passengers but more like ones for animals, with bars, no windows and peoples hands sticking out. Also they never stopped properly or waited for everyone to get on board, you can just see people jumping in and out. Our one arrived 40minutes late but at least gave us an opportunity to safely climb onboard. Were later advised that often you get four to twelve hour delay and we were lucky (again!) it was just 40min. Our ticket was marked with class 3AC which had 3 tier beds and air conditioning, even blankets and pillows were provided. Beds were comfy enough to sleep all the way through and by the time we woke up it was light.

It was first time we haven’t arrange couchsurfing but easily found a cute small Singh Guesthouse a few minutes away from the river. Tuk tuk driver showed us eight places and we chose this one. Not because it was a cheapest option (400RP per night) but also it was cleanest and most secure one with open garden and tables outside, instead of ones with reception fitted in a closet and managed by 10year old boy, and beautiful view room turning out to have windows to neighbors wall.

So after enjoying a long waited peace over cup of tea in the garden we set off for a walk along the famous Ganges river. And oh boy it did fulfill my expectations. It’s something unbelievable and unusual, extremely beautiful and making you ‘wow’. There you can see people washing themselves, clothes, dishes and two steps further cows taking a bath.

First, we noticed that people are not so irritating and the only thing they’re offering you by the river is the boat ride. “Yes? Boat madam?! Very cheap, special price for you”.

Burning ceremony

Six/seven hours after person dies, ceremony can be carried out. As one of the locals explained, body will be carried around the town on the bamboo stretcher by 4 men singing special song. They will head towards the river where dead persons hair and beard will be shaved off and he will be changed into white clothes.

Then he will get five mouthfuls of Ganges water to symbolize five elements of nature: wind, earth, water, fire and air. Bodies are divided by class and burned for three hours. It’s believed that in a process of burning soul leaves to nirvana. Women are not allowed to take part in a ceremony as according to men they’re emotionally weak to handle it and could disturb the process of reincarnation.

After burning chest and hip bones are thrown into the river (as they are the only bones that don’t burn), as it is believed that fishes and turtles will reincarnate after eating them. There are six types of people that are not allowed to be burned, as they believed to be already cleansed from their sins. These are: monks, pregnant women, children under 10, snake bitten and measles patients. Instead, they are wrapped in white cloth and thrown into a river with a stone attached to their body.

All the above information was discovered when at 6pm we went to see the ceremony ourselves. Seeing humans body being burned on an open fire inevitably reminded me where I am and what cultural differences we are facing. That night my sleep was deeply disturbed…

Unexpected change of plans

Initial plan was to stay in Varanasi for two nights and shoot south after. However, as mentioned before, in India nothing goes according to the plan, no exception was made for our smooth departure. It turned out we couldn’t get any train tickets for at least next few days. We were stuck in Varanasi.

But as I believe, everything happens for a reason and there was one in our situation. When looking around for a place to stay we met a few students from Banara University who turned out to be the highlight of the next few days. They chatted us up thinking we were lost as Giedre was carrying her notepad like a real touristJ we ended up having our private tuk tuk’s as boys helped with heavy bags around university premises. They sorted out the dinner and even accommodation for the coming night by secretly sneaking us into girls dormitory. Girls were extremely excited to have unlawful outsiders for the first time and using the opportunity to share their culture, used us as live dolls by dressing up in their clothes and taking lots of pictures. We ended up being surrounded by bunch of our age Indian girls and sharing stories till midnight.

Soon discovered that boys are studying law degree and by sharing my knowledge about complicated world of Law, I soon became their diva and had my long waited hours of fameJ boys introduced me to their tutors and showed their law faculty, I even had a chance to travel back in time and browse around Indian Law library. For the next few days I was called ‘Lady Rita’ or ‘miss advocate’. First time my law degree pays off:)

After all unexpected turn of events it was sad to leave Varanasi and newly made friends. They even did a surprise and showed up in the train just before it left, to say goodbye. We have a 28hour train journey ahead heading south, with a next destination- Mumbai (ind. Mombay)

Goodbye North, and hello long waited South!