Thrilling weeks in Northern Thailand

Visiting Thailand for the third time, or should I say crossing the border that many times. As the previous visit lasted like 5min just to do a border run to renew my Cambodian business visa.

However, every time I’m coming into Thailand, border crossing never goes smooth, it seems that thai immigration loves me too much to let go hassle free. Sometimes my passport looks suspicious or pictures are not the right size, or I’m just too blond. Anyways, if you’re Lithuanian, expect to have some problems 🙂

I’ve landed to Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok, which is smaller then BKK international.

To and from the airport. Public bus #59 goes straight to Khao San road (last stop) and cost 30TBH ($1). You can catch it outside the airport, on the main road. It runs every hour or so. Be aware that there are two types of #59- red and orange goes to monument, and blue one goes to Khao San. We were waiting for ages, and took a taxi sharing with other 2 people, which worked out 50THB each. Driver will ask if you want to go highway, say no! as you’ll end up paying a fortune for road tolls.

Travel log and expenses.

Bangkok-> Chiang Mai 12h 350TBH ($11) -> Pai 4h 160THB -> Chian Mai 4h 150THB (minibus)/ or 5h 80THB public bus -> Bangkok 12h 480/550THB

Bus to Chiang Mai drops you off in the middle of a highway, in the middle of the night. Can’t be more helpful spending extra baht’s on tuk tuks, which cost 50THB each for a 12km ride to town. Hotel prices vary around the town but in a low season you can get a double room for 200THB/night.

Found a favourite place for smoothies next to morning market. The tea tree house + happy smoothies, best place for food and drinks. Massive fruit shakes for 25THB with a delicious choice of food ranging from 40 to 60THB per dish.

If you happen to stay in Chiang Mai on Sunday, big street market is a must see. You can find it by the main city gate. Filled with delicious street food and a big range of souvenirs, it’s one of the biggest street markets in Thailand.

After reading all the mixed reviews about Tiger Kingdom, I’ve decided to rate it myself. Tuk tuk cost us 200THB for all day and the entry price ranges 400-620, depending on the size of a tiger you want to “stroke”. Seeing the grown up cats’ running in their cages I reconsidered the degree of my braveness and decided to go with medium and small ones, and they were not that small at all! Just by entering in I popped out loud my first question: ‘ are they drugged?’ and they gave me a big reassuring NO. Would I believe them? 50/50.

Second part of this article is being written four months after I’ve returned from long travels. It’s because I came across it in a saved and never finished box. Not sure how to approach, as memories are a bit faded and text won’t sound as exciting but I’ll try to deliver it anyways.

En route to PAI. One way ticket cost 160TBH and took horrible 4hours in a mini bus, leg squashed, luggage almost on the head, sick of snake wiggly roads kind of way. The way back, same story but add one extra hour on top and minus 10TBH (150). You can get local bus for 80TBH one way but I dread to think what kind of conditions you get choosing that option.

Arrived just before the sun went down. Getting used to idea that it’s raining almost every day, after all low season in knocking on the door. Don’t get me wrong, it rains all night and just a bit in a day but it’s still warm.

There are verity of attractions around, whether you want to see spring waters, explore villages, ride elephants or go on a trek. If you’re brave enough, rent a scooter (100TBH/24hours) and do it yourself or join the tourist masses and follow the beaten track.

If you’re considering having elephant experience, I would highly recommend doing it up here in Pai, rather then in Chiang Mai. Two reasons: it’s way cheaper and not as cruel. And I’m not saying it just from my direct observations but also from wide verity of travellers reviews. I chose Toms elephants, which cost me 800TBH for an hour face to face time with enormous elephantus. Like most of other companies, they offer a ride and a swim in a river. You also get CD with pictures and films material. This is included in package price. And it was an amazing experience making you realise how powerful and smart they are and how dangerous these animals can be. This company doesn’t use attached wooden seats, which seems a better treatment towards them but I would be lying saying they haven’t been hit or trained using unacceptable techniques. Accommodation wise, we did run straight into cheapest option thinking it’s just another backpacking place, we are used to it. However it made me realise how tired I am after all cheap places by now and when it comes to rainy days, I do want to feel cosy and stop worrying about the possibility of cockroaches strangling me in my sleep, or even worse- spiders finding holes in my bed net… The backpacking holiday was coming to an end and I did deserve two dollars more expensive bungalow:)

First night accommodation Family House Bungalows 200/night. Internet doesn’t work in huts, massive gaps between floor, crawling creatures and  impossible to kill cockroaches.

Other few nights at Country Hut Bungalows 300/night. Changes include comfy new bed with nice warm shower, free tea and coffee in the mornings. Both resorts are next to each other, just across the river.

At the time I was there, curfew was still on so nightlife wasn’t so great. Even tho, Khao San road was up and going 24/7 no matter what.

Last but not least- dam dadaaaaaaam!- Khao San Road, famously described as “the centre of a backpacking universe”. Judging by the truth-seeking travellers, who converge here to shop, exchange tales and prepare for their next stint on the backpacker trail, it’s a phrase that sums it up pretty much perfectly. I’ve never came across 1km street that is packed with countless budget guesthouses and mid-range hotels, massage parlours, swanky clubs and bars, restaurants, bookshops, travel agents,  market stalls,  internet cafes, supermarkets, tattoo shops and much, much more.

Following friends I met in Pai advice, I decided to treat myself with luxury and spend last few night in a higher price/stars hotel. Rikka has a nice and very well equipped rooms, also swimming pool on a roof and a prime location. All of this costing 850/night if you book online and 950 if directly at the hotel. At least that was a deal at the time in June 2014. Very last night was spent at Siam Star hotel, which is on an average side but is far from the busy road and close to shopping centres and next to the airport link (that runs every 20min and costs 90TBH). That’s all I needed before returning home. Golden forgotten word- shopping! Bear in mind, place i’ve found was tourist untouched, with some amazing clothing for ridiculously low prices! Shhhhh don’t tell anyone most of my wardrobe unique peaces don’t reach $8 value:)

It’s a shame I delivered this post so late but hopefully it will be helpful for all of you out there, ready to explore the northern side of Thailand.

Love, R.